Contubernio Mahina (Dirk Niepoort)

The latest vintage of the Mahina plot rescued by Wim & War

Mahina is a single vineyard white wine, included in the latest Contubernio pack. The vineyard of only 1 ha, planted with 100% Palomino (old clones) was acquired by Armando Guerra (whose father also owns vines in a nearby plot) together with his Belgian friend Wim Casteur. It is located in the pago Mahina or Maína. A beautiful place, 2 kilometers from the sea and kind of an island surrounded by marshlands. Mahina has a specific terroir that is highly regarded. Things are happening there and this pago will get a number of interesting new expressions in the near future.

We already know this particular plot quite well from the Cernícalo Primilla wines made for Xpertvinum. These were vinified from the same grapes, during three harvests if I’m not mistaken. Recently Xpertvinum closed down (or at least re-oriented) and their partner bodega Callejuela closed down too, so the owners are finding other ways to operate the vineyard. They started collaborations with different winemakers (such as The Wine Bang) who had their own footprint in one of the vintages, leading to slightly different interpretations over the years.

Palomino wine inspired by Dirk Niepoort

In 2023 Armando called another long-time friend Dirk Niepoort, who decided to help him make the wine that is in our glass today. Remember Niepoort already made vinos blancos in the sherry region around 2008-2020 in the Navazos-Niepoort project.

The wine was fermented in barrel and then aged for 18 months, also in old botas. Towards the end of the ageing period a very light veil of flor started to appear. Three botas are now bottled. There’s one more which will age further as a certified Manzanilla de Añada, a rare vintage Manzanilla like the one pioneered by La Callejuela. It will be interesting to try that in a few years.

In the meantime the next vintage Mahina 2024 is maturing. For this wine they worked with Pepe Blanco. It will be the first result of Pepe’s new start after he and his brother stopped La Callejuela.

Contubernio Mahina 2023 ‘Inspirado por Dirk Niepoort’ (12%, Wim War / Vinos según cede 2025, 1333 btl.)

Nose: very elegant, with lots of seashells, mineral / sandy notes and bruised apples. A very light volatile touch too, which isn’t disturbing. Also interesting: plenty of fruits keep coming out, quinces and marmelade, even hints of apricot. Then some very subtle hints of flor – maybe esparto grass and a bit of green olive and very light herbal touches.

Mouth: not too weighty, with a nice fruitiness still shining through. Lots of yellow apples again, with a subtle sour edge that still has a cidery edge. Beautiful juiciness (citrus) paired to more serious mineral notes. Soft almonds and chalk. Medium finish.

Availability: only through Contubernio.

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Summary: Armando keeps saying Palomino wines need some resting in the bottle. Here as well, I think I may have opened the bottle a little early. That said, it is already a very elegant and highly drinkable white with a beautifully fruity side. Another really nice expression of Mahina.

3.5

Really good

Tags: 2023, armando guerra, Blanco de Albariza, Club Contubernio, Mahina, Maína, Niepoort, Vino blanco, Vino de Pasto, Wim Casteur

About the Author

Ruben is a Certified Sherry Educator who fell in love with sherry some 25 years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be