Published on February 5th, 2014 | by Ruben0
Essential books on sherry
Any book about Spanish wines will give you some general information about sherry, but usually just some rough basics without going into detail. After all sherry is a peculiar wine, and behind this wine there’s a story that’s slightly difficult to tell. Regular wine connoisseurs tend to see it as an outsider wine.
Books that specifically deal with sherry are rare, especially in English. I won’t list all of them, but here are three of my favourite books on sherry that are highly recommended for enthusiasts. Note that none of these books contain any pictures, so they may not seem entirely welcoming. They’re all written in an easy way though, and the amount of information included is astonishing.
This book was first published in 1961 and the fifth, fully revised edition dates back to 2004. Essentially the reference work for sherry until Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla came out. It set the guidelines for other books: the first half is taken up by the history of sherry, its origins, the sherry boom of the 19th Century and the ups and downs of the 20th Century. A second part is about the production and maturation of the wines; a third part is a (short) overview of bodegas and their products.
As a history of sherry, it is still a top-notch reference. There’s very little to add even though it has been 10 years since the last update. Unfortunately the part about bodegas is too concise and a little dated. It may not serve as a perfect guide for buying sherry in today’s market.
The book is out of print and therefore very hard to come by. Second hand versions tend to be expensive when they’re in a good state. Luckily there’s a good eBook version for all kinds of platforms (€ 17 in iTunes).
Julian Jeffs is currently working on a new, fully revised edition. It will be published in November 2014.
A guide to the traditional wines of Andalucia
Peter Liem & Jesus Barquín
Peter Liem is an American wine writer and an authority in the field of Champagne. He recently got into sherry and now organises the Sherry Fest in New York and Toronto. Jesús Barquín is a professor of criminal law, but more importantly also a founder of Equipo Navazos.
Published at the end of 2012, this is the most recent and up-to-date book on sherry. It follows the scheme of Julian Jeff’s Sherry, but the focus has been shifted a little. The historical part is short. The part about production methods is longer, and there are excellent additions about the terroir of bodegas, bottle closures, bottling dates, etc. It also includes some information about the neighbouring D.O. Montilla-Moriles and related products like Tintilla de Rota or Xerez-Quina. Another nice addition is the chapter about storage and bottle-aging, serving temperature and glassware – opinions on these things have changed in the last few years.
The second half of the book is an extensive list of bodegas in the D.O. Jerez-Xérès-Sherry, D.O. Manzanilla and D.O. Montilla-Moriles. Nearly all of the wines currently available are mentioned, sometimes with (rough) tasting notes. There’s also a small appendix with tips for visiting the region (restaurants, hotels…)
This is the new must-have for sherry enthusiasts. Julian Jeff’s book talks you through the history but Liem & Barquín are your guide into the 21st Century. Both are complementary “bibles” in my opinion. This book had a significant impact on the popularity of new initiatives like Equipo Navazos – and to some extent it even encouraged me to start this blog. You can purchase the book online.
Christopher Fielden & Javier Hidalgo
Published in 2010 and probably the first book to cast the spotlight on Manzanilla alone. Based on the same material as the earlier book (in Spanish) Manzanilla – El vino de Sanlúcar by the same authors, but more than just a translation. Fielden is a wine columnist and Hidalgo is a son of two important families: Argüeso and Hidalgo.
The first part of the book is a history of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, partly based on historical archives of the Duchess of Medina Sidonia, and a chapter about the production of Manzanilla. The rest of the book (by far the largest part) is taken up by a list of all current bodegas in Sanlúcar (including some of the smaller almacenistas). There’s also a part about gastronomy and food pairing (including recipes) and tips for visiting the town.
Overall maybe not essential if you’ve read the two books above, unless you really want some specific details on the bodegas of Sanlúcar. Available on Kindle as well.