Published on April 22nd, 2021 | by Ruben0
Sobajanera 2018 (Callejuela)
One of the unfortified Palomino wines that are getting closer to a young Manzanilla
Another new white wine from Palomino Fino, and once again the Blanco brothers from Callejuela bring something with a twist. Sobajanera 2018 is a Vino de Pasto, unfortified and made with grapes from their vineyard La Choza in the Cerro Santiago area, a part of Macharnudo Bajo bordering Macharnudo Alto.
The wine comes from one single barrel and had 24 months of biological ageing under a layer of flor. By the way, Sobajanera is an old name for a young jack-of-all-trades in farms and horse ranches in Andalucía. Usually a boy but in this case a girl.
Sobajanera 2018 – Vino de Pasto (13%, Callejuela, 696 btl.)
Nose: hints of hay, warm dune sand, and perhaps more chamomile than in some Manzanillas. Hints of sea air. Then light whiffs of almonds but also a ripe, sweet apple backbone. Quite weighty but also quite elegant.
Mouth: plenty of volume and plenty of intensity, again showing more weight than a classic white wine. The flor influence is quite noticeable, bringing it closer to a young Manzanilla / Fino than to a white wine perhaps (although it’s hard to pin down in this “road to sherry” continuum). Nicely balanced between dry, mineral notes, savoury elements and these round echoes of fruit. A chalky edge with very light herbs in the finish.
Availability: very limited. Around € 18-25. I found a bottle at Xpertvinum.
Summary: An unfortified Palomino white from a highly regarded vineyard - quite obviously so. Two years under flor have left a mark, and although it's still a crossover white wine, I rather think of this as the 'lower limit' of sherry so to speak. It shows a lovely weighty character and firm profile. Really good.