Published on July 27th, 2017 | by Ruben0
Fino En Rama 2012 (Alvear)
The first vintage Fino in modern history
I believe the first edition was laid down back in 1998 and bottled early 2000s, whereas in Jerez the first Fino de Añada didn’t appear until 2015. It’s not a yearly release, so far I’ve seen references to Fino En Rama from the 2002, 2003, 2004, 2006, 2008 and 2012 harvests.
Like other wines in Montilla-Moriles this Fino is produced from Pedro Ximénez grapes without fortification. This supposedly adds to the complexity of the wines, although I wouldn’t generalize it. In any case it is a recent bottling and the En Rama treatment means it should be alive and kicking.
Fino En Rama 2012 (15%, Alvear, Spring 2017)
Nose: very intense, with lots of dry aromas (hay, almonds, hazelnuts, a little burlap) but also a slightly bigger sweet-and-sour citrusy note than what you’d expect from a Jerez Fino. Big yeasty notes, with hints of freshly baked bread. A powerful, rather complex blend of austerity and roundness, well succeeded.
Mouth: pungent attack, with plenty of olive brine and salty sea spray. Not too dry – again it’s rather grapey and fruity but with a slightly lower acidity now. Olives, lightly toasted notes, almonds, also a mineral touch. The savaouriness and saline spikes are quite impressive. Wide, long finish, with a refreshing bitterness and herbal note.
Summary: A really good Fino, with an above average citrusy side and plenty of intensity. Perhaps a little rounder than some examples from Jerez, but this Montilla wine is certainly on the same level.