Published on January 16th, 2017 | by Ruben0
Fino Camborio (Juan Piñero)
Fino Camborio is maintained in a traditional, artisan way, reviving the style of lost almacenistas
Camborio is an old Fino from Bodegas Juan Piñero. It is aged in a rather small solera – started in 1940 – of only three criaderas. There is just one saca per year (two in rare cases), which means the average age stays high, around 9 years.
It comes from the bodegas in the Calle San Francisco Javier in Jerez, built in 1910 by the almacenista Ángel Zamorano Corrales. The brand Camborio was founded by Bodegas de Terry in El Puerto de Santa María. Over the past few decades, it was owned by Rumasa, Harveys, Domecq and Beam Global who sold the 400-butt solera to Juan Piñero. The wine is supervised by Ramiro Ibáñez and refreshed with mosto from the Callejuela vineyards in the pagos Añina (30%) and Macharnudo (70%).
This wine was recently awarded 91 points by Parker.
Fino Camborio (15%, Juan Piñero)
Nose: nicely warm and dry. Plenty of flor, hay and traces of yeasty dough. Also mineral notes, olives and a punchy saline side. Almonds, light earthy notes. Nonetheless there is a nice apple warmth underneath, evolving towards very light apricot after a few days in the open bottle.
Mouth: big and punchy, with a high impact, but at the same time quite a round profile. It’s dry and acidity is low, making this a warm and almost fatty wine. Green olives and almonds. Some briney notes and the bitter edge of dried herbs, especially in the finale. Just a light earthy touch. A serious Fino.
Availability: difficult to find outside of Spain. Around € 8-12. I’ve got it from Xpertvinum.
Summary: An interesting Fino, sometimes serious, sometimes mild, but always with plenty of weight and a dry, flor-driven profile. I like it a lot. Still very much a local product but worth trying if you can find it.