Toro Albalá Amontillado 1951 (Decadent Drinks)
A cask of Toro Albalá selected by an independent bottler originating in the whisky industry
Here is something I have never seen before: an independent bottling of a Toro Albalá wine. The concept of an independent bottler is far less common in the sherry (or Montilla) world than in the whisky world, which is where Decadent Drinks has made its fame.
The company, founded by Angus MacRaild, selects the best casks from whisky distilleries and releases them with its own label. It started with the Whisky Sponge series, but diverged into different ranges like Whiskyland and Decadent Drams. Aside from whisky they’re often looking at other spirits like cognac, armagnac or calvados. In the sherry world this is known as marquistas with names like Equipo Navazos, Sopla Poniente or The Wine Bang. I don’t think any of these managed to secure a cask from Toro Albalá though.
Amontillado 1951 ‘single cask’
This Amontillado 1951 is the first wine release in their Decadent Grapes sub-series. We know this wine from the Marqués de Poley series – I believe it has been available since 2017-2018. The label also mentions Butt #279 but I’m not sure this actually classifies as a ‘single cask’ bottling with the same definition as the whisky industry. In Montilla the merma (evaporated liquid) is regularly replaced with wine from the same vintage, but from other casks. It’s still ‘static ageing’ of course, but I’m quite sure the differences between different casks won’t be significant.
By the way, did you know that at Toro Albalá, vintage Amontillados and Palos Cortados are labelled with the year that the oxidative ageing process began, instead of the harvest year? So a 1951 Amontillado is actually older than that, perhaps even dating back to World War II. I believe this wine was initially aged for around 8 years in a biological way (under flor). Then a very long oxidative period started.
The ripeness of the fruit in this (inland) climate and the natural sugar levels of the grape variety result in a higher glycerol richness than what you usually get in Jerez. Add to this a lengthy ageing and concentration and you get a high natural alcohol volume of 21% ABV.
As always with Bodegas Toro Albalá, the wine is 100% Pedro Ximénez. They’re in Aguilar de la Frontera, part of the D.O. Montilla Moriles. The grapes came from a vineyard in Sierra de Montilla, planted by the founder José María Toro Albalá. That was before phylloxera, mind you, and the vineyard has now disappeared.
If you don’t know how to pair this with food, try some spicy Asian or Mexican dishes, or grilled tuna.
Toro Albalá Amontillado 1951 (21%, Decadent Drinks 2026, single butt #279, 200 btl.)
Nose: very wide and seductive. Furniture polish and fabrics in the sun, mixed with some pickled lemons and sour plums, as well as sweeter candied orange peels and burnt sugar. Toffee and salted caramel, roasted almonds and walnuts. Light hints of apricot jam. Subtle coffee in the distance. Then there’s a slightly volatile / balsamic quality to it, which makes it really elegant. In fact there’s also a brandy-like side to it. You could smell this for hours.
Mouth: totally dry, now with piercing acidity coming out. The lightest jammy hint, but most of the perceived sweetness of the nose is gone. There’s a hint of Liège syrup though. Lemony notes and cantaloupe, with a good oaky sourness and a distinct salty touch. Then toasted hazelnuts, more orange peels, along with exotic spice. A racey, sharp edge and a very light chestnut tang as well. Drying leathery notes. Mildly bitter almonds and herbs in the end. Very long finish, which brings back the sweeter notes, hints of pistachio and warming oak.
Availability: available directly from Decadent Drinks or partner retailers like Master of Malt. A bottle goes for around £ 255.
Summary: A very refined yet incredibly ample Amontillado, very close to the wider release. Due to the brandy-like edge this will certainly appeal to whisky lovers as well, so let's hope this attracts a new audience.
4.5
Excellent
About the Author
Ruben is a Certified Sherry Educator who fell in love with sherry some 25 years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be
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