Manzanilla Minuto (G. de Angulo)
Another revived brand from a young couple with a large bodega history
G. de Angulo is a historic bodega. It is named after Gerónimo de Angulo y Dávila, whose grandfather moved to Jerez in the early 1730s. Like his grandfather and father, he was a Knight of the Order of Ronda and later also Mayor of Jerez. He was also the family’s first winemaker, with cellars at the Plaza de San Marcos in Jerez.
Through marriage he inherited the important soleras of the Villavicencio House. One of his descendants settled in Sanlúcar after marrying a lady from the Otaolaurruchi family.
In 1891 the brand Manzanilla Minuto appears, in homage to the bullfighter Enrique Vargas González, nicknamed Minuto. Quite curious, in fact, since the vast majority of Manzanillas have been named after women, as you’ve certainly noticed (Aurora, Gabriela or La Gitana to name a few). Later the Manzanilla La Celada became a huge commercial success.
Maria Cuquerella Rivas and Gerónimo de Angulo Hidalgo
Today the young couple Maria Cuquerella Rivas and Gerónimo de Angulo Hidalgo have been reviving the brand and recovered the trademarks in 2023. The wines come from old soleras which they kept in their home on Calle Fariñas. Together the couple has family links to Delgado Zuleta, Hidalgo-La Gitana and Manuel de Argüeso, and many more in fact. They are operating as AC Wines & Spirits, based in the Bodega San Juan, in the oldest part of the lower town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Recently it also acquired its own vineyard in the pago Miraflores, but I’m quite sure this didn’t play any role in today’s bottle.
The current-day Manzanila Minuto is a medium aged wine, around 6-7 years of age. It is bottled en rama. They also have the Manzanilla Vieja La Celada, the Amontillado Divisa and the Oloroso Corsario.
Manzanilla Minuto ‘G. de Angulo’ (15%, AC Wines & Spirits, L26)
Nose: very intense yeast up front, along with haybales. Underneath there is a bright hint of lemon peel and apple. Later also subtle hints of dried fruits, almonds and walnuts. Some sandy shrubbery and sea spray.
Mouth: really intense again, with low acidity. It sits right at the verge of juicy and round fruitiness, with yellow apples and quinces, and slightly more serious notes. A very light spiciness and a marked salty edge. Then more yeast, sourdough and the very subtle bitterness of dried Mediterranean herbs. Dried chamomile too, of course.
Availability: around € 25. Available from AC Wines & Spirits if you live in Spain. Check Casa Ortega or Dealbariza for international shipping.
Summary: A totally classic Manzanilla, with some vibrant youthful elements but also a more mature side. This combination - and the overall intensity - makes it a very rewarding wine that keeps you interested. A great discovery, and I will be on the lookout for their other wines.
4
Very good
About the Author
Ruben is a Certified Sherry Educator who fell in love with sherry some 25 years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be
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