Fino En Rama – Señorío de Callao (León Domecq)
The cornerstone Fino from the upgraded almacenista León Domecq
As you may remember, Bodegas León Domecq is the new name of Bodegas Vides, founded by Tomás Domecq Rivero in 1958. It is located in the Calle Justicia, in one the oldest parts of Jerez. In 2021 they launched the series called Señorío de Callao, starting with several oxidative sherries. For more background information, check our review of the Palo Cortado.
A couple of months later they added this Fino En Rama to the range. This unfiltered sherry is said to be around 9 years of age.
Fino En Rama – Señorío de Callao (15%, León de Comecq, L122223)
Nose: quite intense, with elements of an older Fino Pasado. There’s plenty of bread dough, along with haybales, wet chalk, hazelnuts and limestone. I love these whiffs of sheep stables as well. Then dried rosemary and thyme, with some dried wildflowers in the background. Light hints of fruit acidity too.
Mouth: quite robust and pungent, with a firm dryness and only moderate acidity. Almonds and walnuts, with a subtle overripe apple sweetness in the background. Mid-palate a bitterness sets in (dried herbs), making it increasingly medicinal. There are still dried blossoms and bread crust underneath. Salinity grows stronger over time, adding some astringency. Medium finish, quite dry, still nutty and mildly bitter.
Availability: not cheap, between € 22 and € 35 depending on the market. Not cheap, remember it’s only a 50 cl bottle. I got mine from the German site Vinello.
Summary: Not a Fino for beginners. It is really intense, with a very nice farmy touch, some astringency and an almost medicinal side on the palate. Like the rest of the range, the price is quite ambitious.
3.5
Really good
About the Author
Ruben is a Certified Sherry Educator who fell in love with sherry some 25 years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be
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