Fino

Published on July 19th, 2016 | by Ruben

2

Fino / very dry (Barbadillo)

This is one of the many Fino wines that Barbadillo is selling. There is a Fino Pale Dry with the Barbadillo coat of arms on the label, another Fino with a blue Dry & crisp bookmark on the label, a Tesco Finest Fino in the UK, etc. This particular bottling seems to be exclusive to the Albert Heijn supermarkets in Belgium and The Netherlands, which also offer another bottom-shelf Fino from Barbadillo with a very dull, green-lined label for just € 3.

 

So what are we having exactly? All the same Fino?

 

My label says Barbadillo but you can find the same bottle with the brand Pastora at the top, albeit at 17% alcohol. I think that may be a US version. At the end of the 19th century, Bodegas Barbadillo were owned by Pedro Rodriguez, and the name Pastora refers to his ‘Pastora’ cellars in the shadow of the Castillo de Santiago, and his famous brand of Manzanilla Pasada from that era.

Of course Barbadillo is one of the biggest producers of sherry, yet I don’t think having so many similar wines with vague labels and a plethora of sub-brands is helping to boost the consumer’s confidence in sherry. Let’s not go into that now. I’ve also been wondering about producers like Barbadillo – based in Sanlúcar – selling a wine as Fino. Shouldn’t it have been produced in cellars in Jerez then, or else called Manzanilla?

 

 

Fino / very dry (15%, Barbadillo)

Nose: some buttery notes at first, with hay and dried yellow flowers. Moderately yeasty, with a light fruitiness.

Mouth: slightly youngish, quite low acidity, with an off-dry fruity note and nutty roundness. Some overripe apple and lime. Soft hints of brine. Touches of bitter almonds as well. Seems quite similar to the Fino Mil Pesetas but I don’t have a bottle to compare.

Availability: I paid € 5 in the local Albert Heijn supermarket.

Fino / very dry (Barbadillo) Ruben

Summary: A Fino that's on the lighter side of the spectrum, a bit Manzanilla-like let's say. A standard wine, cheap and rather sound.

2.5

Fine


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About the Author

fell in love with sherry fifteen years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be



  • David Moore

    I visited the Barbadillo bodega once & asked our guide why the wine they bottle for Tesco (which I don’t rate) is labelled Fino rather than Manzanilla & was told its because that particular building is sheltered by the castle & so the wind doesn’t blow through it as much as the others & the wine doesn’t acquire the Manzanilla tang.

    • SherryNotes

      It is certainly true that their Bodega La Pastora is located right behind the Castillo, in the C/ Practicante Gutiérrez. This is a dark bodega with very little airflow. But… this is also where they mature (or at least “finish”) their Manzanilla La Pastora. It doesn’t seem to make much sense: how is one wine a Fino and the other a Manzanilla, from the same building in Sanlúcar?

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