Oloroso

Published on March 24th, 2014 | by Ruben

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Oloroso Añada 1990 (Lustau)

Like other vintage sherry, this Oloroso Añada 1990 was produced from a selection of grapes with a particularly high ripeness. The vinification is started by partially fermenting the grapes. Instead of a full fermentation (which consumes all sugars and transforms them into alcohol), the process is halted at around 7 degrees of alcohol. After that, some pure wine alcohol is added and the wine is matured in separate American oak barrels, not in a solera system. Since the partial fermentation retains some of the natural sugars of the grapes, it will develop into a (moderately) sweet Oloroso.

The label of this sherry says Oloroso abocado. Abocado means smooth and it usually indicates some kind of sweetening, either before or after the maturation process. Mind that the sweetness of these wines is usually much more integrated, much more natural than in cream sherry that is sweetened with Pedro Ximénez just before bottling.

The Añada 1990 is a limited release of 8.000 numbered bottles

Bodegas Lustau released several vintages so far. The ones that are still occasionally found in stores are the 1989, this 1990 and the Lustau Añada 1997. The 1990 was bottled in 2007 (released in 2008) and won several awards. Its colour is slightly darker than the 1997 and contains much more red hues.

 

Oloroso abocado Añada 1990 (20%, Lustau 2007, 8.000 btl.)

Nose: typical dried figs and dates, nice hints of raspberry as well. A slightly darker fruitness than the 1997, with less orange freshness. More milk chocolate and latte. Caramel and toffee. Sultanas. Very nice aromas of polished exotic woods (mahogany) and beeswax. Plenty of smoky hints in the background and a lovely hint of incense. Excellent.

Mouth: medium sweet (comparable to a Port wine, definitely not like a Pedro Ximénez). Starts on dried apricots before moving to dates. Hints of roasted coffee beans and dark chocolate. Less peppery than the 1997. Walnut cake. Then it evolves on all kinds of nuts, like hazelnuts and macadamia. Long, warm finish with hints of liquorice. In the end it seems to be slightly drier and oakier than the 1997 version.

Availability: some stockists seem to have a few bottles left. Around € 30-35 for a 75cl bottle.

Oloroso Añada 1990 (Lustau) Ruben

Summary: Like the Lustau Añada 1997, this is a complex wine with a stunning balance of spices, sweetness and polished oak. As a hybrid wine it is capable of winning over fans of both sweet and dry genres. For me the 1997 has a slight edge.

4

Very good


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About the Author

fell in love with sherry fifteen years ago, but switched to a higher gear in 2013 and started writing about it. Lived in Madrid for a couple of years, now back in Belgium. I also run a whisky blog over at www.whiskynotes.be



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